Thursday 7 December 2023

Book 78: Calum's Road

 Calum's Road by Roger Hutchinson - first published in the UK in 2006

This book tells the story of a remarkably determined man called Calum MacLeod, who lived on the island of Raasay off the east coast of Skye.  He got tired of waiting for the local council to build 1.75 miles of road from Brochel to his home community at Arnish and decided to build the road himself.  

Calum's Road has to be seen in the light of the last 200 years of the history of Raasay and its inhabitants.  In the mid 19th century the people of Raasay were cleared from the more fertile areas of the island to make way for sheep.  Many emigrated and those who remained were banished to eke out a living at the north end of the island and on the tidal islands of Fladda and Eilean Tigh or on the rocky island of Rona to the north of Raasay.  George Rainy, who owned Raasay from 1846 to 1863, had a 6-foot high dry stone wall constructed across the island at its narrowest part.  The islanders were not permitted to live or graze their animals on the south side of the wall.  

In 1921 desperate crofters from Rona settled illegally on the south east side of Raasay and reclaimed the land, from which their ancestors had been evicted 70 years earlier.  They became known as the Raasay Raiders.  After a court case, the matter was finally resolved when the island was sold to the Scottish Rural Workers Approved Society.  They leased the island to the Board of Agriculture, who created new crofts on Raasay.

In the 1920s the inhabitants of Fladda unsuccessfully petitioned the local council for a footbridge over the tidal causeway, so that the children who lived on Fladda could walk to and from school.  Instead of a bridge, the council built a small school on Fladda in 1936.  In 1962 Calum asked the council for a causeway to Fladda but he was told the cost was too high.  In 1965 the last three families left Fladda.

In 1931 the inhabitants of north Raasay petitioned their local council for a 3.5 mile road from Brochel Castle to Arnish and on to Fladda.  Beyond Brochel Castle the only access was a narrow footpath.  Gradually the population of north Raasay decreased, mainly because of the lack of road access.  Calum hoped that this decline would be reversed if a road was built. Despite decades of petitioning for the road, the local council always refused to build it.

From 1949 to 1952 the local council paid Calum and his brother Charles to build a track from Torran to Fladda.

Calum began building a road from Brochel to Arnish in around 1964 using only hand tools and a second hand book on road construction and maintenance, which was published in 1900. Calum got through 6 picks, 6 shovels, 3 wheelbarrows, 4 spades and 5 sledgehammers while building the road. He did the road building in his spare time - he was a crofter, postman, boatman and an assistant lighthouse keeper on Rona  By the time he finished the road he and his wife were the only residents left at Arnish.   He did all the work on the road himself, apart from some help with blasting through some sections to form the foundations and create aggregate, which the Department of Agriculture paid for, and some surveying, which the Royal Engineers did for him.  

Calum's road was finished by 1974 but was only accessible for tractors and 4-wheel drive vehicles.  After much discussion and procrastinating, the local council tarmacked the road in 1982.  Calum died suddenly in 1988.

This book is more than just the story of a road.  It is about what one individual can achieve if they are determined enough.

Wheelbarrow and sign at the start of Calum's Road at Brochel 

Calum's Memorial at Brochel

Calum's Road

Tuesday 5 December 2023

Book 77 - Like a Mantle the Sea

Like a Mantle the Sea by Stella Shepherd - first published in the UK in 1971

Papa Stour is a small island located off the west coast of Shetland Mainland. 

Stella Shepherd and her husband moved to the island of Papa Stour in 1962 to take up the posts of school teacher and lay assistant minister respectively.  They lived in the draughty school house and for the first few years there was no electricity or piped water in the house.  Light was provided by paraffin lamps and water had to be collected from an outside well.  They stayed for 8 years until there were no pupils left at the school for Stella to teach. 

In the mid 19th century the population of Papa Stour was 350 but it fell steadily from the 1870s onwards, due initially to a decline in the herring fishing industry.  By 1962 it was about 50.  When she arrived on Papa Stour Stella had 8 pupils but one by one they left to go to secondary school on Shetland Mainland or their families left the island or in one sad case one of her pupils became ill and died.  Mechanisation enabled the dwindling population to cope with the extra work they had to do to keep life on the island viable:

"The depopulation and consequent labour shortage have led to enforced mechanisation.  Thus the few men left have to have mechanical aids.  And these few men, in order to maintain a reasonable standard of life and to keep abreast of the work, must be men of many parts".

Stella describes the daily lives of the islanders, seasonal farming events (e.g. fertilising the land with seaweed, ploughing and potato planting), their social events (e.g. weddings) and local customs (e.g. the Papa Stour Sword Dance and kale throwing at Hallowe'en).  She also gives details of the coastal geomorphology, landscape, flora and fauna of the island.  She and her husband lent a hand when they could and got involved in all the social events.  During her time there an airstrip and new pier were constructed, which improved communication with and access to the outside world.  Council officials came and went and there were occasional visitors.

Stella and her husband cheerfully endured long stormy winters when Papa Stour was cut off from the mainland for weeks at a time.

Papa Stour is now served by a roll on-roll off car ferry 4 days a week but in 2011 the population was only 15. 

Papa Stour Airfield

Natural Arch at Aesha/Aisha Head 

Lyra Skerry off the NW coast of Papa Stour

Snolda Stack

Remains of watermills at Dutch Loch
These horizontal mills once had turf roofs.

Ruined farm, Hamna Voe

Aesha Stack with a natural arch incorporated into it